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A view from the top: Twenty-year-old Tuan has lived in the Hoang Lien forest for over a year, sleeping in living quarters located at the foot of the T-pillars that now hold up the Fansipan Cable Car system. Every day when his work is done, the young man from Muong Khuong asks his colleague Ly A Doan to trek up to the highest peak to look at the bright lights of Sa Pa. Loneliness has become a companion for security officers like him. But the stunning scenery is always of comfort.
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In the middle of the forest: When riding in the cable car, some tourists have spotted the small white buildings down by the T-pillars in the middle of the Hoang Lien forest. These are the living quarters of the security team, who are tasked with protecting the pillars of the Fansipan Cable Car line.
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Local hero: Hoang Anh Tuan, an ethnic Day from Muong Khuong village in Lao Cai Province, is just 18 years old but has already been working as a security guard for the T-pillars for more than a year.
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Ly A Doan, an ethnic Mong, is 23 years old. Doan has just been in this job for five months.
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If you have read the blog-diary by Son Phuoc called The Silence of Sapa, you will have had a feel for the lonelier side of life for people who have devoted their youth, working day and night, in the mountain town. The two security guards — both from ethnic minority groups — devoted to protecting the T4 pillar of the Fansipan cable car are also ‘silently working’ in what is considered to be the most remote and difficult to access areas of the forest.
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Early risers: Rising at 6am in the middle of winter, means waking up to feel the biting cold. The security living station is on a cliff face at an altitude of 2,650m. This is where Tuan and Doan wake up to start their working day.
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Rice trump noodles: The two young men have breakfast, usually bowls of fried rice made in a hurry. Tuan said they often eat fried rice in stead of instant noodles because the noodle goes cold too quickly.
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Packing provisions: All of the necessities for the past week are packed into one bag. The two young men say that every week food will be transported to the security station via the cable car cabin.
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Keeping active: The average temperature here is about 16-17 degrees Celsius year round but in winter it can drop below zero Celsius. The two men say they have to exercise constantly to heat up their bodies.
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Biting cold: Ly A Doan had not experienced the extreme wintry weather when he first started working at the T4 pillar. But Tuan described the feeling of working in the middle of a forest on top of a windy mountain, so Doan could imagine the challenges ahead!
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Into the wild:“At first I just thought that I would only work as a security guard, I didn't think I would be living in the middle of the forest and climbing the pillars,” says Tuan. “Last October, I started to work at T2 pillar, before I moved to T4 where I have been until now.”
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Man’s best friend: The two men are not alone. They have a small dog who keeps them company. This is one of eight small dogs which Chien, the deputy head of the Fansipan cable car security team, has sent to each T. pillar.
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Getting ready: In cold weather, and in the silence of the wilderness, the two young men quietly prepare to go to work.
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Concentrated effort: It is a simple job but one that requires patient care and comes with a great deal responsibility.
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In the thick of the forest: When working, Tuan and Doan take turns to check the area around the pillar and many of the trees that surround the pillar. "When I started working, I still couldn't imagine I had to work in such a remote location. The first time I was assigned to guard one of the T-pillars was in June. I didn't want to go up there because there were only two of us, but I have been in the job until now,” Doan said.
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Routine checks: At about 7am each day, Tuan and Doan must check the pillar to ensure that the pillar is safe and especially that it has not been damaged in any way, for example, in a landslide.
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Come rain, come shine: The men work through the seasons all year round. In Summer and autumn, the weather is stable and dry but in winter or ‘wet’ season, it is more challenging for these guys.
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Contact base: After finishing their routine checks of the pillar, the security team will report to their seniors to update them about the pillar condition.
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Down time: After finishing their morning's work, the two young men can attend to their personal needs. "Normally we shower every two days, but in winter, once a week," says Tuan.
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Frozen stiff: “In 2017, I was working at column T3, where there was no power grid and the electricity only ran with a generator,” says Tuan. “When the temperature dropped below zero, everything was covered with ice and the generator could not operate. There were mornings when I made instant noodle for breakfast, but the water would go cold so quickly. At night, when there was no electricity, I had to pour oil into a cloth and put it in an empty can to make some fire. When I fell asleep and forgot to put it out, I woke up with my nose breathing in the black smoke.”
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Survival tips: “It’s definitely better to cook rice in the winter when it’s really cold. Sometimes we have eaten rice mixed with instant noodles! When there's no electricity and we run out of oil, Tuan uses a gas stove to cook. The water on the mountain is often frozen in winter, so we have to search for wood logs or bamboo and try to find water inside,” Tuan said.
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Dear diary: Doan shows us the handbook in which he keeps a record of their daily work reports so that other security teams can have an idea of the situation and their day to day tasks and observations.
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Turn up the radio: In their spare time, Doan and Tuan listen to music and chat shows on the radio. The only television antenna they had in the security station has been inoperable since being damaged in a storm at the beginning of the year.
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Precious warmth: The two men say that their heater is the only “treasure" they have. Obviously when the winter weather is particular cold, the two men huddle by the heater to stay warm.
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Planting seed: The two men are also tasked with planting seeds so the forest continues to flourish. In their spare time, Tuan and Doan often plant bamboo in the surrounding area.
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Homesick but resilient: “When I first came to the mountain, I was a little sad but I never once have thought of quitting my job. In the morning, seeing my colleague always cheers me up though of course I miss my family sometimes," Tuan said.
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Weekly delivery: Once a week, the security teams at the pillars receive supplies via the cable car.
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Supply drop: All necessities will be dropped from the cable car down to the security guards.
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End of the day: At the end of the day, when it’s less crowded with tourists, the cable car system can be used to fetch and deliver necessities to the security teams for about 15 minutes.
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Team building: Tuan and Doan always look forward to receive food supplies and a chance to meet their colleagues.
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Special treat: On some days, Tuan and Doan will treat themselves with a nicer meal than usual.
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Early to bed: After their evening meal, Tuan and Doan will go to bed early, before the temperature drops, and to get enough sleep as they always have to rise early in the morning. Tuan and Doan are just two of many young men, who are quietly and devotedly working away in the middle of the forest, making sure the T-pillars that hold up the Fansipan Cable Car have not been damaged.